Train in Secret

Nuclear Arms Proliferation + Eric Varney Direct

2010-12-23T16:56:00.000-08:00

My annual winter visit to the Colorado front range has started off fairly well. On December 21 I managed to send "Nuclear Arms Proliferation" on the Beer Barrel boulder. Following that, I managed to send the "Eric Varney Direct." What a goddamn sandbag.

Summer into Fall

2010-10-26T08:21:00.000-07:00

I've had an extremely busy summer followed by an equally busy Fall season. Highlights of the summer include:
-Over 30 days of guiding at Smith Rock.
-Some great days cragging in the Lower Gorge at Smith.
-A few awesome days mountain biking.
-One particularly enjoyable day of climbing at Beacon Rock, WA.
I climbed some great routes and went on some good rides, but really it was all about guiding for me this summer. I put all of my focus and energy into guiding and overall I'd say it payed off. I had plenty of private guiding days and became much more comfortable in that role, which I previously found intimidating. There were certainly days--particularly when it was extremely hot--that felt tough, but all of that has been easily filtered through my seive-like memory hole. Toward the end of summer, Jordi and I beat the heat by swimming in frigid rivers:
Since school started, my climbing has been fairly limited. My attention has been focused on redpointing a route called "Bela Lugosi," a 5.12c at Broughton Bluff. The route is super technical, pumpy, and complex. It is the antithesis of straightforward sport climbing--the kind you find at, say, French's Dome. To stay in shape for "Bela," I have been training almost exclusively in my garage. I haven't gone to the gym much at all, which is fine by me for now. The other big news, which is bigger than anything else, is that our daughter was born!Her name is Anika Isabel Blumenstein Struck. Jordi's five-day labor was more trying than anything I've ever witnessed or experienced. We're both glad that is over and that now we can get on with having fun raising Anika.
'Cross season is in full swing, and I have only managed to get to one race--Alpenrose on October 3rd. Things were going ok until two laps to go, at which point I dropped anchor and had to drag my stinking carcass to the finish line to rot. No matter! As I've been saying for 13 years now, there's always next Sunday!

Weekend Warriorship

2010-04-29T10:03:00.000-07:00

I took it to the limit this past weekend & pulled off the Trifecta, which went like this:
Saturday: While Jordi and her aunt Amy went cross country skiing around Timberline & Government camp, uncle Andy and I spent the day skiing at Meadows. The tele turns were feeling groovy!

Sunday: The infamous "Bear Springs Trap" x-country MTB race. I have done this race many times over the years, and it is never easy. I managed 9th place in the Cat. 1 35-44 year old category, with a time of 2 hr. 56 minutes. I'll take it.

Monday: After Sunday's race I drove to Smith and spent all day Monday climbing with my buddy Aaron Webb. After a couple easy pitches, I sent my project, "Liquid Jade," (5.12b), and then we climbed a sweet 5.12a further up on the Shipwreck wall (a full 35 meter pitch--great fun!), and capped off the day with "Crossfire," 5.12a on the Karate Wall. Damn, what a climb! What a wall!

The only thing missing from this weekend are photos! I was too busy having the time of my life!

Spring Breakdown

2010-04-04T09:55:00.000-07:00

I've managed to send a few high quality routes during late winter, early spring. Highlights include "Dracula" (5.12a) at Broughton's, and "E-Type Jag" (5.11a) at the Upper Gorge at Smith. The Upper Gorge is a great crag and nobody was there during our two days spent there during spring break.

Our spring break ambitions were cut short by snow and rain, but I did get in one awesome day of skiing with my old friend Bernhard. Four cans of food earned us each a full day lift ticket at Ski Bowl. We were both feelin' it in our legs by day's end, but man, what fun.

FontaineBLUES

2010-01-06T09:41:00.000-08:00

More Morrison

2010-01-05T08:52:00.000-08:00

First Overhang

2009-12-27T15:52:00.000-08:00

Gym Morrison

2009-12-27T15:48:00.001-08:00

Gettin' Spanked

2009-12-24T17:00:00.001-08:00

And that's as far as I got, every single damn time...

Colorful Colorado

2009-12-21T07:33:00.000-08:00

We arrived in Colorado yesterday after an early morning flight. It feels like coming up for air...sunny & mid-50s temps...perfect.

Here is a shortlist of problems I'd like to check out:

On Flagstaff:
-NW Corner of Beer Barrel (V6).
-the "UCT"..Undercling Traverse (V9).
-Moffat Direct ... (V8).
-Just Right (V8).
-Hollow's Way (V8) .
-First Overhang (V5).

At Horsetooth:
-Pinch Overhang (V6?).

Carter Lake:
-Kahuna Roof (V5).

Morrison:
-Helicopter Direct (V6)

Meanwhile, here is a training secret: listen hard to this man:Nice technique, no?

Recollections of Fontainebleau

2009-12-14T12:14:00.000-08:00

Downloads: Views: 1608

I Need More

2009-11-21T15:00:00.000-08:00

The photo below documents Joe H.'s glorious failure, pitching off casually from the infamous "Chain Reaction." I made every effort to prod Joe up this thing, even going so far as to remind him that surely he could send a route that was the state of the art approximately 25 years ago. To no avail...Still, for every fall Joe took off of Chain, I took at least two off of my own path to personal glory...the ever-so-elusive and oh-so-mighty "Liquid Jade." Indeed, perhaps I am TOO STRONG TO SEND?! Why the magazine writers didn't come flocking to the Shipwreck Wall to document the power I emanated from my fingertips is beyond my comprehension. You people have no idea how truly amazing Joe and I are. Go on, diminish yourselves.

Meanwhile, the final 'cross race of the gargantuan Cross Crusade series is over, and while most folks in the ol' "blogosphere" were babbling about Molly Cameron's late race bobble, nobody expressed any interest in the REAL tragedy that took place not two laps in: my shifter getting clogged with mud, rendering it inoperable. Here's me, pre-tragedy:So graceful, so wonderful. Oh, what might have been!

Shattered

2009-11-12T17:14:00.000-08:00

Another Sunday, another 'cross race. Looking ahead...and looking behind...Either way it was ugly.

Another Saturday, Another Sunday

2009-10-29T11:19:00.001-07:00

Saturday, October 17th: Great day of guiding a couple students at Smith Rock! We did some great multi-pitch climbing, followed by some cragging, all in a marathon day...left Portland in the early AM, returned home late, shattered, and psyched.The next day, Sunday, October 18th...an incredibly hard 'cross race in Sherwood, Oregon. I look like a spring chicken in the photo below compared with how I looked when it was all over. Totally shattered...it took me four days to recover.

Recent Saturday, Recent Sunday

2009-10-27T23:22:00.001-07:00

I've been getting in some solid Saturday climbing sessions, followed by Sunday 'cross races.

Saturday, October 10, Liquid Jade (12b) at Smith Rock:
I didn't quite get the send, but all the moves are easily there...it's just a matter of linking. Next trip.

And then...Sunday, October 11th: a 'cross race at Rainier High School, Rainier, OR.:Tough race, as all of them are. The course at Rainier is incredible.

Liberatory Education & Killing The Thousand-Headed Dragon

2009-10-03T18:14:00.000-07:00

Jordia on September 19th, 2009, after finishing 2nd in her age group and 7th woman overall in the Timberline Marathon, Mt. Hood, Oregon:
Then, after resting a few days, and enduring a week-long, influenza-induced torment, Jordia ran the Portland marathon on October 4th:

Meanwhile, school is full steam ahead, and I still have the wise words of Paulo Freire ringing in my ears after a good summer's read. There's lottsa learning going on, what with Jordia and her marathon, loads of bouldering, some cragging, and happily, a bit more late summer guiding for me. Finished up a great route called "Kashmir" (5.12a) at Broughton Bluff--a full 100' of climbing with trad and sport all mixed together. I managed it without too much difficulty.
Meanwhile, it's cyclocross season, and for me to be a part of it after 11 years, I have to check my ego and just go for it, despite now having fully made the transition to making climbing my primary extra curricular activity. There's always something new to learn, as I was reminded the other day by this befuddled broseph:I leave you with this little ditty, and some summer bounty...
'Tis the night before the 'cross race
butterflies in my trunk
but the worst of it is
my bowels be carryin' funk...

Summer Fun Time

2009-09-02T13:36:00.000-07:00

This summer has been very busy with guiding and a little traveling here and there. Nothing too exciting. The above photos were taken at the City of Rocks in early July. I spent most of July guiding at Smith, and most of August renovating my garage. Yeehaw.

R.I.P. John Bacher

2009-07-07T12:51:00.000-07:00

Guiding the Monkey

2009-06-30T10:11:00.000-07:00

Guiding season is in full swing, and I had a great time guiding clients on Monkey Face on Sunday. Three other guides and I set up a tyrolean from the "Springboard" to the mouth, and then took them up via Panic Point to the top, from where they rappelled 200' to the ground. Great day of guiding for me, and fun for everyone.

Test of Endurance/Summertime Guiding

2009-06-25T07:33:00.000-07:00

School's finally out for summer, and last week I started my "vacation" off right. I drove out to Smith Friday night, worked a guiding gig all day Saturday, drove to Corvallis Saturday night, raced the Test of Endurance 50-mile mountain bike race (5 1/2 hours on the bike...tough!), drove back to Smith Rock, and did a multi-pitch guide training all day Monday. I drove back home Monday night thoroughly worked over, but very psyched.

I'm hoping to get as much guiding work as possible this summer; it looks like I'll be out at Smith quite a bit. Monday's training renewed my motivation to pursue an AMGA Rock Instructor certification so I can legitimately guide multi-pitch terrain (of which there is plenty at Smith Rock). My fellow guides at Chockstone are great to work with; they are all quite unassuming, and totally accomplished climbers and guides. Monday's training was challenging, and gave me the perfect shift in perspective about climbing/guiding.

The Test of Endurance was very hard, but I expected as much and am happy that I finished. The amount of hard climbing in that race is sickening. I'm content with how I've been able to balance my interests in cycling and climbing...both are demanding and you can never stop improving in either pursuit.

Le Mur de la Coquille

2009-04-24T11:51:00.000-07:00

Voila mon ami . . .

2009-04-19T20:16:00.001-07:00

«Ici, mon guide était Jo, la forêt était son domaine, et il évoluait avec une telle aisance qu'il paraissait avoir saisi les secrets du grès. Petit à petit, je m'imprégnais de sa science.»

-Jacky Godoffe, on learning the subtleties of bouldering in Fontainebleau from Jo Montchaussé

Pourquoi on grimpe?

2009-04-17T11:55:00.000-07:00

"After years of practice, I believe profoundly that climbing means placing your feet, hands, and emotions on the same line, and that in order to accomplish this goal, it must be a way of life.”
-Jo Montchaussé

Hick Rock

2009-04-13T12:28:00.000-07:00

Jordi and I happened upon this fine speciment (complete with fern in mouth) in the Gorges d'Apremont. Rest day in Fontainebleau.

Faces of Font

2009-04-11T07:51:00.001-07:00

You can never get complacent in the Fontainebleau forest. There's always someone there watching, laughing...

C'est FONTastique!

2009-03-04T19:25:00.000-08:00

Jordi and I have been training like headless chickens for our upcoming trip to Fontainebleau, France. I'm furiously studying frog language by day, and pulling down at The Circuit by night. I'm hoping for magical synergy by the time we arrive.

For me, Fontainebleau represents the best aspects of rock climbing: subtle, technical bouldering in a beautiful setting, in the context of an interesting culture, language, and climbing history. It's the best.

Revelations

2009-02-24T12:41:00.000-08:00

"The book I had read had produced incredible results. I told noone one about it, or about how I had achieved my success. It took place behind closed doors. My training, too, was mostly done in secret, as I never wanted anyone to know what I was up to, or how good I was. I was becoming an introvert, distancing myself from my friends, and it didn't suit me, Success came at a price."

-Jerry Moffatt, in his new book "Revelations"

The Ol' Ball & Chain

2009-02-03T11:43:00.000-08:00

"...Now you ride each and every day (sometimes twice a day) seven days a week. Now you deal with the bike full time. No car rides around town--all your local transportation must be by bike. You live with the bike, you are married to the bike. I'm sorry for you if you don't think this is necessary. Believe me, it is what it takes to be a top rider." -Eddy Borysewicz

Summer Session 2006

2009-01-21T08:46:00.000-08:00

Photo of me on Tommy's Arete, RMNP, summer 2006, after returning to the states after a month in France.

Missing the Ski Weekend

2009-01-16T09:37:00.000-08:00

We would normally be celebrating MLK weekend by heading up to Mt. Hood with our good friends to do some cross country skiing, tele skiing, and just generally gettin' busy with the snow. But family duty calls this weekend . . . We need to help Jordi's dad. Athletics can quickly get pre-empted by family; I surprise myself when I realize that there was a time in my life when I would have truly been bothered by this...

Silver Creek Falls

2009-01-12T14:44:00.000-08:00

Yesterday, Jordi and I went on a much-needed 37-mile run around Silver Creek Falls multiple times. Nothing too special, but refreshing after a weekend full of driving (the purpose of which I won't rehash). The run was pretty atypical for me; while I was doing this, I know full well that a bunch of my cycling friends were getting in massive base miles. I was content to run around the above scenery. After the run, we drove back to P-town and I went to the Circuit for some endurance work: 30 easy problems and lots of pull-ups.

'Cross Season '08

2009-01-09T05:59:00.000-08:00

This photo was taken at one of only two good 'cross races I had all season. My 'cross season didn't turn any heads for any good reasons, but you get what you pay for. I didn't really focus on 'cross at all, and more importantly could not muster any amount of motivation to go out there and be competitive. This was bad timing on my part, because most folks around me really focus on 'cross and were really firing this year. Nonetheless, it's always fun to take part in the Oregon 'Cross Crusade series. This year upwards of 1000 folks showed up each weekend to race, which is by far more than any other 'cross series in the country. Add to that the very competitive "A" field and the fun-loving nature of the events...I can find very, very little to criticize.

Active Recovery

2009-01-06T10:21:00.000-08:00

I drive this desk when I'm not ridin' bikes or climbin' rocks. It is from here that I punish young minds with the pain and suffering of hard hittin' literary genius.
"This is the true joy in life, the being used for a purpose recognized by yourself as a mighty one; the being thoroughly worn out before you are thrown on the scrap heap; the being a force of Nature instead of a feverish, selfish little clot of ailments and grievances complaining that the world will not devote itself to making you happy."-George Bernard Shaw

Top Ten 2008

2009-01-05T20:22:00.000-08:00

(in no particular order . . . )

10. Stumbling upon a perfect, lonely granite boulder in Steamboat Springs, CO. in mid-June. A classic V4-5 and the eleventh hour send (see "Eureka" below). Who says there's no climbing in the 'Boat?

9. One of my clients getting her hair sucked into her rappel device, necessitating a rescue. There's nothing like putting theory into practice.

8. The so-called "Team S&M Epic Ride," August, 2008. 60 miles of glorious mountain bike adventure with the homies. Best ride of the year by far.

7. Wintertime sending spree with my old bike racing buddy from our junior days, Ted Lanzano (who now climbs 5.14), on Flagstaff Mountain, CO. "Damn Jeff, you should just climb full time . . ."

6. Coming close to death while putting out a roof fire on Jordi's mom's cabin in the Ochoco's during Spring "Break." Exhilerating workout.

5. October trip to Colorado to attempt "The Naked Edge," Eldorado Canyon. 900' of air between your legs & "5.11 Eldo" does strange things to your head.

4. My sister's wedding. The 100+ degree "dry heat" of Colorado taught us all a few things about the glory of shade.

3. Sending "The Right Side of Red Wall" on Christmas Day after years and years of effort. Praise Jesus.

2. Guiding for Chockstone Climbing Guides. Maybe one day they'll update my profile on their website.

1. Backcountry skiing Berthoud Pass with Matt "Ping Ping" Battaglia. That put a little more hair on the bear...

Circuit Sessions

2009-01-04T20:18:00.000-08:00

You pull and pull and pull your hardest, but there's always a teenager there to pull even harder.

You convince yourself that V6 is passé, and proceed to get spanked.

You fall on your butt and look like a fool.

& yet you pull, and pull harder still.

Christmas Present

2008-12-26T19:03:00.000-08:00

On December 25, 2008, I sent the classic "Right Side" problem on the problem packed Red Wall of Flagstaff Mtn. The send came after years of work. and years of falling off just the first move of the thing.

Like most problems on the Red Wall, the problem is only a few moves long. It is extremely hit or miss. The temps were in the high 30s/low 40s, perfect for Flag.

Sequence: LH on the Soapdish, RH on the 2-finger divot. Crank up to the bad pinch with RH, and punch again with RH to the good pocket. Topping out takes yet another kinda spicy move. Done. See photo. Merry Christmas

Time To Get Serious

2008-11-21T09:11:00.000-08:00

Secret Weapon

2008-11-12T09:50:00.001-08:00

I've humped this thing more times than I'd like to remember. Look hard and you can see the groove worn into the steel drum. This damn thing used to be my old friend Jon Tarkington's trainer before I took it off his hands. I hate these sweat machines.

The Tick List

2008-11-12T09:46:00.000-08:00

Eureka!

2008-11-07T06:06:00.000-08:00

Eric Varney Goes Down

2008-11-02T13:02:00.000-08:00

"Ode to Eric Varney"
Left hand in good pod
Right hand to soap dish, crimp!
Pull up feet to good holds
Deadpoint left hand to three finger crimp
Move feet
Right hand to two finger pocket, crimp!
Move feet
Left hand up up up to potato chip, crimp!
top out, hoot & holler

NAKED, EDGY

2008-10-28T18:35:00.000-07:00

(The Naked Edge follows the middle arete, tracing the line between light & shadow to the top. The top photo shows the "left" side (check the overhanging headwall at the top), and the photo below shows the "right" side.)Climbing projects begin with an inkling, an inspiration, and a vision of ultimate success. You need not register, pay an entry fee, or show up at some predesignated time. Climbers trace lines up rocks and imagine themselves up there, in an environment that mocks them and tells them to go back to where they came from. We are not supposed to be up there, but we show up anyway. For whatever reason, I've spent the majority of my life inspired to put myself in these wild places. I've had aspirations to climb "The Naked Edge" in Eldorado Canyon for years, but only recently have I developed the confidence to know I can succeed. Climbing "The Edge" in Eldo has been a long time coming for both me and my good buddy Matt "Ping Ping" Battaglia. On Friday, October 24th, he and I paid a visit to our "church," to flirt with our maker.

Matt and I arrived in Eldo early enough to get chilled by the classic Eldo "wind machine" in the parking lot. Yet the sun was already waiting for us on the first pitch. We racked up and quickly hiked to the base of the "ramp" route, which gives quick and easy access to the route. Matt and I simul-climbed the first 5.6 pitch until rope drag became bad enough for me to want to stop. A two-bolt anchor was right in front of my face, just when I needed it. Matt followed, and continued climbing up through the funky "cave" pitch. While a fairly easy pitch, climbing through the cave offers weird protection. It is only 5.8+ climbing, but there's a stark contrast between leading a following this pitch. Matt got through it and quickly set up the belay.

I climbed as fast as I could to the belay, and Matt began to rerack immediately. I was so psyched to be up there with Ping; he is such a solid Eldo climber and is incredibly strong right now, despite being immersed in P.A. school There we were, at the base of the real route after climbing a solid 200 feet of approach pitches. I had imagined myself there so many times that to actually be there in that moment (during what would normally be a work day, no less), was bizarre and invigorating. It was Matt's lead; he's been on this pitch multiple times, and we figured it would be most efficient if he led this pitch. Matt moved smoothly up through the initial 5.10 moves to the notorius, solid stance. Moving off of this stance is known as the crux of the pitch. Matt was hesitant, not quite able to crack the code of those funky moves off the stance. After multiple attempts, I offered to give it a go. Matt agreed, and I lowered him to the belay.

I climbed quickly through the first 5.10 section, moving fast more out of impatience than skill. I was anxious to get on the upper pitches of the climb, which neither of us had climbed before. I got to the stance, and pulled through the move, fully adrenalized. The climbing here is delicate and technical; climbing it is like trying to thread a needle with fuzzy yarn--possible but funky and if you miss, it only gets fuzzier and more difficult. As I climbed a few moves past Matt's highpoint I struggled to place a small cam. I quickly clipped the piece and struggled to move past it. Suddenly, POP! I let out a shriek, my foot came off, and I fell off. The cam held. I quickly regrouped and got back on despite the pump. I fell again trying to ease my right foot onto the one good foothold I could find. Once again, and again despite being pumped, I got back on. I slotted my left hand (Or was it my right? I was too impatient to care) into a good lock, and finished the pitch.

Matt came up to the belay easily. The second pitch was next--a runout 5.9 slab with a couple bolts on it, then around the corner to a 5.10b crack. Again, it was my lead. I sketched through the slab, trying hard to keep my head in check. Rumor has it that if you fall off the other side of the "edge," it would cut your rope. I don't think that's true, but such lore is strong when it's right there in your face, so falling off the slab was a horrific thought. I couldn't quite stop shaking as I continued up the slab.

I managed to clip the bolts in the corner and made the transition to the left side of the "edge." While the holds here were good, the exposure was sickening, and the climbing just delicate enough to keep me shaking. I found the textbook nut placement, but as I was fiddling with the wrong size nut, I pulled it out and managed to yank myself off the wall. Again, POP! I was outta there. I inadvertently let go of the nut, and it fell to the void below. (The photo below shows a climber at exactly the same position I was before I fell.) I was shocked that I fell off, and even more shocked that a marginal, tiny cam held me. I surprised myself that I wasn't more scared, but the climbing felt solid enough, and I was psyched to keep pushing it. I got back on the wall, managed to find the good nut placement, and finished the pitch. Again, Matt followed and made quick work of it all.The third pitch, and again my lead. This pitch, while very exposed and exciting, is about 5.9 and standard "Eldo" fare: solid rock broken up by rotten bands of dense, fractured choss. Aside from horrific rope drag and a decidedly UNenjoyable mantle move, this pitch went smoothly. I'll remember to bring more long slings next time. Lesson learned.

The most exciting part about this pitch was arriving to find a tattered rope slung around a block for the belay anchors. I was imagining two beefy bolts under the overhang, offering a slight sense of security there. Naw...just a couple ropes around a block. I clipped in and struggled to pull up the slack in the rope in order to get Matt on belay. Matt climbed up, and aside from the annoying mantle move on the right side of the arete, climbed the third pitch without a problem.

Now we were at the business of the climb-the notorius pitch 4. (The photo below shows a 70s hippie hiking the hard shit.)Difficult climbing never looks so bad from below, but the intimidation factor of this pitch was suffocating. While at this point we had gotten in more of a groove, it was also getting later in the day, almost 3:30. Neither of us wanted an epic on this day.

Matt racked up and climbed through the 10c beginning smoothly. He was quickly perplexed, though, as to how to get into the chimney. The climbing looked desperately delicate from my position at the belay, and I was basically in awe of Matt's ability to suck it up and go for it. The fourth pitch of "The Naked Edge" is the real deal no matter how experienced you are, and Matt tackled the pitch full on. I was barely able to stay cool even at the belay! The overhang doesn't help, and neither does the 700 feet of nothingness underneath your feet. Suddenly I realized that everything I had ever read about the "exciting" aspect of this pitch was indeed so terrifyingly true...

And yet, our work on this pitch was anti-climactic. I was stressed about time, and Matt was frustrated and understandably gripped about the possibility of falling and shearing out the notoriously questionable fixed pin at his feet (later that day he spoke with Justin Sjong about this pitch, and Justin confirmed that the pitch is indeed the real thing). And so, I called it. I recommended that we bag it. Matt agreed without protest, and we spent the next hour rapelling the entire 600 feet to the ground.

This was an important trip for me: I have focused more on climbing this summer and fall, relegating cyclocross to second fiddle after focusing heavily on 'cross for ten years. I was very excited to climb "Eldo 5.11" (thin, delicate, funky) high up on the Redgarden Wall. What better route to do this on than the "Edge"? After that day, "Eldo 5.11" seems like not such a big deal. Finally, I was so grateful to climb the route with one of my best friends and climbing partners. At the end of the day, I left feeling satisfied and happy to have climbed so well with Matt--a true testament to our long friendship. We hadn't climbed on a long route together for at least a couple years, but that didn't matter-we know our strengths and weaknesses well, and our rope and gear management was incredibly streamlined and solid. Despite hanging it out there, there was no drama, no histrionics, and nothing emotional. Hell, even our ropes managed to not get stuck on any of our 6 rappels to the ground. Another beautiful day of sunny Colorado rock climbing...I'll take what I can get.